A short history of Edinburgh
Every day except Sunday, a gun is fired from Edinburgh Castle at 13:00. The tradition began in 1861 so that ships in the Firth of Forth could set their clocks. It's normal to jump the first time you hear it.
The castle stands on rock left behind by an extinct volcano. The Old Town grew along the ridge that runs down from this rock to the Palace of Holyroodhouse. Space was tight, so houses grew upwards, and in the narrow closes off the Royal Mile you'll still see tall old buildings.
In the second half of the 18th century, the orderly streets of the New Town were built to James Craig's plan north of the drained Nor Loch. Princes Street Gardens now fill the old loch bed. In 1707 the Scottish parliament merged with the English one, and Scotland got its own parliament back in 1999. You can visit the parliament building at Holyrood for free.
Edinburgh neighbourhoods
Dean Village is an old millers' village on the banks of the Water of Leith. A path starts among the stone houses and follows the river.
Marchmont sits on the edge of the Meadows park to the south. Among Victorian tenements, second-hand bookshops and cafés, you see the everyday life of the university area.
Newington has plenty of student eateries and small grocery shops, handy for a cheap meal after walking up Arthur's Seat.
Bars and restaurants line Broughton Street, known for its LGBT-friendly feel. After watching the sunset from Calton Hill, you can carry the evening on here.
If you want sea air, head to Portobello. There's a long beach and promenade, and Portobello Swim Centre still runs a Victorian Turkish bath.
Where to stay
- Old Town / Royal Mile: The castle, narrow closes and historic pubs are right there.
- New Town: An orderly Georgian district with squares, shops and restaurants.
- Leith: The old port, lined with seafood restaurants and waterside bars.
- Stockbridge: A calm, village-like area with boutiques and cafés.
- Haymarket / West End: Airport tram and trains on hand, and a short walk to the centre.
When to visit Edinburgh
May, June and early September are the most balanced time. Days are 14-19 °C, and in June the sun sets towards 22:00, leaving a long day for sightseeing. Rain can come in any season, so keep a waterproof jacket with you.
August is like another city. The Fringe and the other festivals all happen that month, the streets turn into stages, hotels fill months ahead and prices multiply. If you're not going for the festivals, skip this month.
November to February is 3-7 °C, and it gets dark before 16:00. In December a Christmas market sets up in Princes Street Gardens, and the Hogmanay street party on 31 December is ticketed. On 25 January, Burns Night honours the poet Robert Burns, and haggis is eaten.
Food culture in Edinburgh
A Scottish breakfast puts black pudding, potato tattie scones and sometimes haggis next to the eggs and sausage. Haggis is made from sheep's offal, oats and spices, and at dinner it comes with mashed turnip and potato (neeps and tatties). The smoked fish soup Cullen skink and, for dessert, cranachan made with raspberries, oats and whisky cream are also worth trying.
Lunch is 12:00-14:00 and dinner 18:00-21:00. In pubs you order at the bar. If there's a service charge line at the bottom of the bill, you don't need to leave a tip on top.
Edinburgh trip budget
Unless you land in August, Edinburgh is a step cheaper than London. In festival month, though, room prices can double or triple. In an ordinary month in 2026, someone staying in a hostel and eating pub food spends £70-110 a day. A mid-range hotel and restaurants take £150-250, and a hotel with a castle view pushes the bill to £350 and up.
From late July a 5% visitor levy is added to hotel bills. A single Lothian bus ticket is £2-2.50 and a day ticket around £5. Edinburgh Castle is about £22 booked online.
The National Museum of Scotland and the Scottish National Gallery are free. Climbing Arthur's Seat, looking over the city from Calton Hill and wandering the Royal Botanic Garden cost nothing either.
Prices are approximate as of October 2026.
Build your route on the Edinburgh map
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