A short history of Seoul
Gyeongbokgung · Photo: 서울관광 아카이브, KOGL Type 1While the guard changes at the gate of Gyeongbokgung, the towers behind it end up in the same photo. That is Seoul in short. In 1394 the Joseon dynasty moved its capital here, the city was then called Hanyang, and the palace went up the following year. Much of the city wall that winds over the hills is now a walking route.
Under Japanese rule from 1910 to 1945, most of Gyeongbokgung's buildings were torn down. Much of what you see today was rebuilt in recent decades, and restoration is still going on. During the Korean War of 1950-1953 the city changed hands several times and was largely ruined.
What followed was a story of fast growth. The 1988 Olympics introduced Seoul to the world. In 2005 the Cheonggyecheon stream, long covered by a road, was opened up again, and today it is a creekside walk right in the middle of the city.
Seoul neighbourhoods
Seochon is an old neighbourhood of narrow lanes west of Gyeongbokgung. Small galleries and bookshops are squeezed between hanok houses, and it is far calmer than Bukchon.
Ikseon-dong is a cluster of hanok houses spread over a few lanes, the old homes now cafés and restaurants. It gets packed on weekend afternoons, a weekday morning is nicer.
In Yeonnam-dong the Gyeongui Line Forest Park runs along an old railway line. With picnickers on the grass and small restaurants in the side streets, it is a good area for dinner.
In Euljiro, unsigned bars have opened between print shops and hardware stores. By day it looks like a work district, and in the evening people spill into the street for nogari, dried fish, and beer.
Mangwon is known for its neighbourhood market. It suits anyone who wants to see local life and grab snacks, and the park on the Han River bank is within walking distance.
Where to stay
- Myeongdong: Shopping and street-food hub with airport bus stops.
- Insadong / Jongno: Walking distance to palaces, traditional teahouses.
- Hongdae: A university area with live music, easy on the budget and on the AREX line.
- Gangnam: Modern, upscale and full of business hotels.
- Itaewon: International restaurants and nightlife.
- Seongsu: Cafés and design shops in old factories.
When to visit Seoul
Seoul's seasons are sharply drawn, so pack for them. In spring the cherry trees bloom in early April, with days around 10-20 °C. Autumn, from late September to early November, is most people's favourite, dry and clear, with the slopes of Bukhansan turning red.
Summer is hot and humid, with July and August around 25-33 °C. The jangma rainy season between late June and July brings short but heavy downpours. Winter from December to February is harsh, temperatures often drop to -10 °C and the wind cuts through you. On the other hand hotels are cheaper and the palaces quiet.
During the lunar holidays of Seollal and Chuseok some shops and restaurants close for a few days and intercity trains fill up. The palaces usually stay open.
Food culture in Seoul
At a Korean table, small plates arrive before the main dish. These side dishes are called banchan, kimchi leads them, and they are refilled for free when they run out. Water usually comes from a jug on the table or a dispenser in the corner, and you serve yourself.
In the evening samgyeopsal, pork belly, cooks on the grill in the middle of the table. Many barbecue places ask for at least two portions, which is useful to know if you travel alone. Office workers fill restaurants between 12:00 and 13:00, so going a little early or late makes life easier.
At Gwangjang Market you can eat bindaetteok, a mung bean pancake, while watching it fry. Late at night chimaek, fried chicken with beer, is the favourite table for long talks. Tipping is not expected, and you usually pay at the till on the way out.
Seoul trip budget
National Museum of Korea · Photo: Jinah78, CC BY-SA 3.0A bowl of soup or bibimbap is 9,000-15,000 won, and in Seoul the real money goes on the bed. With a hostel and street food a day comes to about 70,000-100,000 won in 2026, with a mid-range hotel 150,000-250,000 won, and a comfortable day starts at 400,000 won.
With a T-money card the base metro fare is about 1,500-1,700 won in 2026, with a few hundred won added for longer rides. Gyeongbokgung costs around 3,000 won, and anyone wearing hanbok gets in free. Renting a hanbok for a few hours near the palace costs 15,000-30,000 won.
There is plenty for free. The permanent galleries of the National Museum of Korea are free, and so are the walk along Cheonggyecheon and the trails of Bukhansan. Walking the city wall needs no ticket either.
Prices are approximate as of October 2026.
Hidden gems and overlooked spots in Seoul
- Ikseon-dong — Small quarter of narrow lanes where restored hanok houses hold cafés and boutiques. (visit ≈ 60 min)
- Insadong — Street and alleys famed for antiques, craft shops and traditional teahouses. (visit ≈ 60 min)
- Ihwa Mural Village — A Naksan hillside neighbourhood of painted stairs and walls. Be respectful of the people who live here. (visit ≈ 45 min)
- Dongdaemun Design Plaza — Zaha Hadid's curving aluminium landmark with exhibitions, design shops and night light shows. (visit ≈ 60 min)
- Starfield Library — Photogenic open library inside COEX mall with towering wall-to-wall bookshelves. (visit ≈ 30 min)
- Seochon — Quiet old quarter west of Gyeongbokgung with hanoks, small galleries and local eateries. (visit ≈ 60 min)
- Bongeunsa — Across from COEX in Gangnam, this Buddhist temple goes back to the 8th century and has a 23 m statue of Maitreya Buddha. (visit ≈ 45 min)
- Seoul Museum of Art — A contemporary art museum by Deoksugung that kept the 1928 facade of the former Supreme Court. Admission is free. (visit ≈ 60 min)
- Bukhansan National Park — Granite peaks north of the city, where trails climb past temples and fortress walls to the 836 m Baegundae summit. (visit ≈ 180 min)
- Leeum, Samsung Museum of Art — Buildings by Botta, Nouvel and Koolhaas house Korean celadon alongside contemporary art at this Hannam-dong museum, opened in 2004. (visit ≈ 90 min)
- Yeouido Park — Once an asphalt plaza, the site became a city park in 1999, with a traditional Korean garden section and tree-lined walking paths. (visit ≈ 45 min)
- Noryangjin Fisheries Wholesale Market — This wholesale fish market is known for its pre-dawn auctions, and seafood you pick at the stalls can be cooked in the restaurants upstairs. (visit ≈ 60 min)
Getting from the airport to Seoul
- Incheon (ICN): AREX Express train, non-stop ≈ 43 min
- Gimpo (GMP): AREX all-stop train ≈ 20 min
Getting around
The metro is extensive; a T-money card also works on buses. Kakao T is the go-to taxi app.
Classic places to eat
- Gwangjang Market: Bindaetteok, yukhoe and kimbap stalls.
- Myeongdong Kyoja: Kalguksu and mandu since 1966.
- Tosokchon Samgyetang: Ginseng whole-chicken soup, samgyetang.
- Jinokhwa Halmae Wonjo Dakhanmari: Dongdaemun’s famous dakhanmari chicken hot pot.
- Noryangjin Fish Market: Pick seafood at the stalls and have it cooked upstairs.
- Woo Lae Oak: Cold Pyongyang naengmyeon since 1946.
- Hadongkwan: Lunch only, for gomtang in a clear beef broth.
MICHELIN-starred restaurants
Last known stars; check the MICHELIN Guide before you go.
- Mingles — 3 MICHELIN stars, Korean, creative
- Jungsik — 2 MICHELIN stars, Korean, creative
- Soigné — 2 MICHELIN stars, Innovative
- Alla Prima — 2 MICHELIN stars, Innovative
Romantic views
- Naksan Park and City Wall (Sunset): The city lights come on as you walk along the old fortress wall.
- Namsan Seoul Tower Terrace (Evening): The whole city is visible from the terrace full of love locks.
- Banpo Bridge Moonlight Rainbow Fountain (Evening): From the Han River bank you watch coloured water pour off the bridge.
- Bukchon Hanok Village (Early morning): Narrow lanes between traditional wooden houses make for a quiet walk.
Football stadiums in Seoul
- Seoul World Cup Stadium: Home of FC Seoul
Day trips
- Hwaseong Fortress — 32 km from the centre
Good to know before visiting Seoul
- Fine: Zero tolerance for drugs, including any THC products.
- Fine: Smoking outdoors is allowed only in designated areas.
- Fine: Jaywalking is fined.
- Fine: Drone flying is largely banned in central Seoul.
- Warning: Praising North Korea can be an offence under the National Security Act.
- The T-money card works on metro, buses and in convenience stores.
- Emergency: police 112, ambulance 119, fire 119
- Plugs: C/F, 220V
- Tap water: Tap water is safe, though most drink filtered or bottled.
- Tipping: There's no tipping culture.
Sources: UK FCDO — Foreign travel advice: South Korea, Wikivoyage — South Korea, T.C. Dışişleri Bakanlığı — Türk vatandaşlarının tabi olduğu vize uygulamaları · For information only; rules change, check official sources before you go. Last checked: 2026-10
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