A short history of Seville
You climb the Giralda not by stairs but by 35 ramps. The story goes that it was built this way so the muezzin could ride up on horseback. The tower rose in the 12th century as the minaret of the Almohads' great mosque, and the belfry on top was added in the 16th century.
Ferdinand III took the city in 1248. One of the largest Gothic cathedrals in the world went up in place of the mosque, while the old courtyard survives as the Patio de los Naranjos, orange trees and all. The real golden age came after the voyages to the Americas. The Casa de Contratación, founded in 1503, ran New World trade from Seville, and ships loaded on the Guadalquivir before heading out to the ocean.
The 20th century left the city two fairs. Plaza de España was built for the 1929 Ibero-American Exposition, with tiled alcoves for Spain's provinces lined up in front of its semicircular building. Expo 92 linked the river island of La Cartuja to the city with new bridges.
Seville neighbourhoods
Macarena begins in the north, in front of the longest surviving stretch of the Moorish walls. The Esperanza Macarena statue in its basilica matters deeply to Sevillanos, and the biggest Holy Week crowds gather there.
San Lorenzo is a quiet old quarter of squares around the Gran Poder basilica. In the late afternoon you'll see older residents on the benches outside the church and families collecting children from school.
To the south, the shady paths of María Luisa Park open onto Plaza de España. It's one of the best places in the city to escape the midday heat, and a few hours pass quickly among the pools and trees.
La Cartuja, on the river island, is known for the contemporary art centre housed in a 15th-century monastery. Columbus is said to have stayed at the monastery before his voyages.
Where to stay
- Santa Cruz: Flower-filled lanes beside the cathedral and the Alcázar.
- Arenal: Near the river and bullring, full of tapas bars.
- Triana: Across the river, a district of flamenco and ceramics.
- Alameda: Bars and nightlife on a long square, with a local, bohemian feel.
When to visit Seville
Easter sets Seville's calendar. During Holy Week, brotherhood processions pass through the streets day and night, and about two weeks later the tent city of the Feria de Abril in Los Remedios dances sevillanas for a week. Hotel prices rise sharply in both periods. For weather, the best months are March to May and October to November, with days at 20-28 °C.
In winter the bitter oranges on the street trees turn yellow. December to February brings 15-18 °C by day, cool but rarely freezing nights and plenty of sunshine. Crowds thin out and morning walks are mild.
From late June to early September afternoons hit 36-40 °C, and some days go higher. In these months give the midday hours to museums or a rest at the hotel, and the streets come back to life after nine in the evening.
Food culture in Seville
In Seville a meal starts standing up. You lean on the bar and order a small tapa, and if you like it you ask for a bigger portion as a media ración or ración. Two plates in one bar, then a walk to the next, is an ordinary evening here.
Lunch rarely starts before 14:00 and dinner is after 21:00. Spinach with chickpeas (espinacas con garbanzos), the cold tomato soup salmorejo, fried fish (pescaíto frito) and oxtail stew are classics of the Andalusian table. A cold fino or manzanilla sherry goes well with thin slices of jamón ibérico. Leaving your coins on the plate is enough of a tip.
You can buy dessert from nuns. Some convents sell biscuits and yemas through a revolving hatch, without you ever seeing the seller. The yemas of San Leandro are the best known.
Seville trip budget
Among Spain's big tourist cities, Seville is one of the gentlest on your wallet. A tapa is 3-5 €, a glass of wine or a small beer 2-3 €, and two people can eat their fill across a few bars for around 40 €. In 2026 a hostel traveller spends 55-85 € a day, a mid-range hotel pushes that to 120-180 €, and boutique hotels with patios reach 280 € and up. During Holy Week and the Feria these figures don't apply.
The centre is walkable, and a single bus or tram ticket is around 1.40 €. Online tickets for the Real Alcázar are about 15 €, the combined cathedral and Giralda ticket around 13 €. The walkway on top of the Metropol Parasol is about 15 €.
Plaza de España and María Luisa Park are free. Crossing the bridge to Triana and walking along the river, or getting lost in the lanes of Santa Cruz, costs nothing either.
Prices are approximate as of October 2026.
Build your route on the Seville map
More guides for Spain
Barcelona travel guide · Madrid travel guide