A short history of Ankara
Climb onto the walls of Ankara Citadel and the sea of apartment blocks below surprises you, yet a hundred years ago this was a small Anatolian town. Settlement around the citadel is very old, and in Roman times the city was called Ancyra. On the walls of the Temple of Augustus in Ulus, the long inscription in which the emperor lists his own deeds is still there, the most complete copy of the text to survive.
Under the Ottomans Ankara was known for sof, a cloth woven from mohair. The hans at the foot of the citadel and the Çıkrıkçılar slope are left over from that market life.
During the War of Independence the Grand National Assembly met in a building in Ulus on 23 April 1920, and the city became the capital on 13 October 1923. Yenişehir, today's Kızılay area, then grew as a planned capital. Anıtkabir was completed in 1953, and Atatürk's remains were moved there the same year. The first assembly building in Ulus is now the War of Independence Museum.
Ankara neighbourhoods
Dikmen Valley · Photo: Jorge Franganillo, CC BY 3.0Ayrancı, with its sloping streets, neighbourhood bakeries and small cafés, is one of the best places to see everyday apartment life in Ankara, and good for a quiet morning walk. The parks and ponds of Dikmen Valley draw families at the weekend and suit an evening stroll.
On the west side, the METU and Bilkent campuses are wide green spaces, and walks in the METU forest and campus events make them a hangout for young people. In Gölbaşı, the tea gardens on the shore of Lake Mogan are among the first choices for locals escaping the city at the weekend.
If you want a day trip, Beypazarı is about an hour and a half away. It's a lovely town with wooden bay-windowed houses, a bazaar and its dry biscuits, but weekends get very crowded, so go on a weekday if you can.
Where to stay
- Kızılay: The heart of the city, a metro hub full of cafés.
- Ulus: Historic centre near museums and the citadel.
- Kavaklıdere / Tunalı: Stylish streets, restaurants and nightlife.
- Gaziosmanpaşa: Quiet embassy district, upscale hotels.
- Hamamönü / Citadel: Restored Ottoman houses and boutique stays.
- Bahçelievler: Local, student-friendly and affordable.
When to visit Ankara
Kuğulu Park · Photo: Elelicht, CC BY-SA 3.0Ankara sits in the middle of the steppe, and its weather shows it. Summer days are 28-32 °C, dry and sunny, with a cool breeze in the evening. In winter night temperatures drop below zero, snow is normal and pavements can ice over.
The nicest seasons are April-June and September-October. On 15-25 °C days it's easy to walk between museums, and in October the trees in Gençlik Park and Kuğulu Park turn yellow.
Because Ankara is a city of business and government, hotel prices follow weekday meetings more than the seasons, and weekends are often cheaper. On 29 October and 10 November visitor numbers at Anıtkabir soar. On those days either go early or move your visit to another day.
Food culture in Ankara
Kebab houses and tradesmen's canteens shape Ankara's food culture. Buttery İskender at the old kebab places around Ulus is a lunchtime classic. Ankara tava is a filling dish of lamb baked together with orzo pilaf.
For something specific to the city, go to an Aspava. At these kebab shops, order a wrap or a kebab and extras like soup, salad, ezme and dessert arrive at the table unasked, which makes them a student staple. In the morning, have a crisp Ankara simit made with grape molasses and a glass of tea.
Lunch peaks between 12.00 and 1.30 pm, following office hours, and finding a seat in Kızılay at that time is hard. Wine made from the Kalecik Karası grape is also Ankara's own. If there's no service charge, people leave 5-10 per cent.
Ankara trip budget
Museum of Anatolian Civilizations · Photo: Georges Jansoone (JoJan), CC BY-SA 3.0Among Turkey's big cities, Ankara has some of the most reasonable accommodation, and food is cheap in most places. With the hotel included, one person's daily total in 2026 is about 2,000-3,500 TL (student hotel, canteen meals), 4,500-7,500 TL (a middle-of-the-road hotel) and 11,000 TL and up (comfortable hotel and restaurants).
The metro, Ankaray and EGO buses take the AnkaraKart, and a single ride is about 20-35 TL in 2026. The Museum of Anatolian Civilizations is a state museum covered by the Müzekart, while foreign visitors pay a higher ticket price. The Rahmi M. Koç Museum is private, so it needs its own ticket.
Anıtkabir is free, and seeing it with its museum takes half a day. Climbing to the citadel and walking in Gençlik Park and the Atatürk Forest Farm cost nothing either.
Prices are approximate as of October 2026.
Hidden gems and overlooked spots in Ankara
- Rahmi M. Koç Museum Ankara — Set in the Çengelhan and Safranhan inns near the citadel, with transport, industry and everyday-life collections. (visit ≈ 75 min)
- CerModern — A contemporary art centre in former railway repair sheds, with exhibitions inside the industrial buildings. (visit ≈ 60 min)
- Gökyay Foundation Chess Museum — Unusual museum displaying hundreds of chess sets gathered from around the world. (visit ≈ 45 min)
- Çıkrıkçılar Slope — Old market slope climbing from Ulus to the citadel, lined with coppersmiths and craft shops. (visit ≈ 30 min)
- Suluhan — A restored 17th-century Ottoman inn around a courtyard, with a tea garden and small shops. (visit ≈ 30 min)
- Atatürk Forest Farm — A historic farm from the early Republic with a zoo, old brewery buildings and wide green spaces. (visit ≈ 90 min)
- Lake Eymir — A reed-fringed lake south of the city, popular for walks and cycling and an easy weekend trip. (visit ≈ 90 min)
- Intangible Cultural Heritage Museum — Museum in Bahçelievler presenting traditions, crafts and folk culture through lively displays. (visit ≈ 45 min)
- PTT Stamp Museum — Quiet museum in Ulus showing stamps from Ottoman times to today, plus postal and telegraph equipment. (visit ≈ 40 min)
- MTA Natural History Museum — Free natural history museum on the MTA campus: fossils, minerals and life-size dinosaur models in the garden. (visit ≈ 75 min)
- METU Science and Technology Museum — Early computers, instruments and tech history collections on the wooded METU campus. (visit ≈ 60 min)
- Gordion — The capital of ancient Phrygia, where the huge Midas Mound hides a wooden tomb chamber, with a museum at Yassıhöyük. (visit ≈ 180 min)
- Beypazarı — Popular day-trip town west of Ankara with restored Ottoman houses, silversmiths and a lively bazaar. (visit ≈ 240 min)
- War of Independence Museum — This stone building in Ulus housed the first Grand National Assembly in 1920. Its debating chamber keeps the original benches. (visit ≈ 45 min)
Getting from the airport to Ankara
- Esenboğa (ESB): Belko Air bus ≈ 45 min
Getting around
Metro and Ankaray lines meet at Kızılay; AnkaraKart also works on buses. BiTaksi is handy for taxis.
Classic places to eat
- Uludağ Kebapçısı: Buttery İskender kebab since 1956.
- Çengelhan Brasserie: Dining in a historic han at the Rahmi M. Koç Museum.
- Tavacı Recep Usta: Ankara tava and lamb tandır.
- Trilye: A long-running seafood restaurant in Çankaya, known for its seafood mezes.
- Göksu Restoran: Classic Turkish dishes and grills in Kızılay.
- Cafe des Cafés: A nostalgic café on Tunalı for coffee and cake.
Romantic views
- Ankara Castle (Sunset): From the walls the whole city spreads out below you.
- Hamamönü (Evening): Restored wooden houses and quiet lanes look lovely under evening lights.
- Gençlik Park (Evening): A lakeside stroll with lit-up fountains.
- Seğmenler Park (Afternoon): A calm green park in Çankaya, good for sitting on the lawn.
- Dikmen Valley (Evening): A long walking path with ponds runs along the valley.
Football stadiums in Ankara
- Eryaman Stadium: Home of MKE Ankaragücü
Good to know before visiting Ankara
- Fine: Insulting the memory of Atatürk, the Turkish flag or state symbols is a criminal offence.
- Fine: Exporting antiquities is banned; keep receipts and, for old carpets or objects, ask for a museum export certificate.
- Fine: Photographing military zones and facilities is prohibited; obey "military zone" signs.
- Fine: Smoking is banned indoors and on public transport; lighting fires in forests in summer is fined.
- Warning: Carry your ID or passport; police may ask for it at checks.
- Warning: Shops and kiosks may not sell alcohol between 22:00 and 06:00.
- Emergency: 112
- Plugs: C/F, 230V
- Tap water: Tap water is treated, but most people drink bottled or jug water.
- Tipping: A 5–10% tip is common in restaurants; round up taxi fares.
Sources: UK FCDO — Foreign travel advice: Türkiye, T.C. Dışişleri Bakanlığı — Resmî e-Vize, Wikivoyage — Turkey · For information only; rules change, check official sources before you go. Last checked: 2026-10
Build your route on the Ankara map
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