A short history of İzmir
Kadifekale · Photo: Mr. E. Unlu, CC BY 3.0Pigeons, gevrek sellers and people rushing for the ferry all share the space in front of the Clock Tower on Konak Square. The tower went up in 1901, but the city's story goes back much further. The first settlement of ancient Smyrna was in today's Bayraklı. The city later moved to the foot of Kadifekale, and legend has it the site was shown to Alexander the Great in a dream. The columns of the Agora behind Kemeraltı are left over from that Roman city.
Under the Ottomans İzmir was a port city, where Turks, Greeks, Armenians, Jews and Levantines traded side by side. The synagogues around Havra Street, the churches of Alsancak and the old consulate buildings on the Kordon are the traces that mixed population left behind.
The great fire of September 1922 destroyed most of the city. Part of the burned area later became Kültürpark, where the fair still opens every late summer. The old stone buildings you pass on the Kordon are among the few that survived the fire.
İzmir neighbourhoods
Karataş is the old Jewish quarter with the historic Asansör, a lift that has been running since 1907. From the terraces up top the bay looks lovely at sunset, and the colourful houses of Dario Moreno Street are on your way. For Kadifekale, the easiest plan is a taxi or bus up and a walk back down the slope. From the walls at the top you see the whole city at once.
In Bayraklı the bay's new towers stand on one side and the excavation of Old Smyrna on the other, a good fit if you want new and old İzmir in the same afternoon. Urla, about an hour west of the centre, makes an easy day trip with its vineyards, artichokes and quiet pier.
Go further, out to the Çeşme peninsula, and Alaçatı greets you with stone-house lanes and the wind that brings the windsurfers. Summer is crowded and pricey, spring and September are much easier.
Where to stay
- Alsancak: The liveliest part of town, with the seafront, bars and cafés, near the suburban train and ferries.
- Konak / Kemeraltı: Next to the Clock Tower and the old bazaar, with the metro and ferry pier right here.
- Karşıyaka: A calm seaside district across the bay, a short ferry ride from the centre.
- Göztepe / Güzelyalı: Quieter, with a long seafront and local eateries, and on the metro too.
- Bornova: A university district at the end of the metro line, with cheaper hotels.
When to visit İzmir
Kültürpark · Photo: Nedim Ardoğa, CC BY-SA 3.0On summer afternoons the imbat, a breeze off the sea, cools the city a little, but daytime highs of 32-36 °C are still normal in July and August. Kemeraltı is tiring in the midday heat, so head into the bazaar early in the morning or late in the afternoon.
Days of 20-28 °C make April to June and September to October the easiest months, and the sea is warm enough from late May until October. At the end of August and start of September the İzmir International Fair opens in Kültürpark, and the park and nearby streets get very crowded in the evenings.
Winter is mild but rainy, around 10-14 °C by day in January. Hotel prices drop then, and there are plenty of sunny days good for a walk along the Kordon.
Food culture in İzmir
In İzmir the morning bread ring is called gevrek, not simit, and it comes with a boyoz. This small pastry of oily, layered dough is a habit inherited from the Sephardic Jews, and bakeries sell it with a boiled egg. Lunch might be a kumru sandwich or kokoreç, then stuffed mussels on the Kordon in the late afternoon, so the day goes by in small stops.
Dinner usually starts after 7.30 pm and the meze table takes its time. Aegean greens such as samphire, golden thistle and radika arrive dressed in olive oil, with fish alongside. In spring, Urla artichokes join the menus.
For dessert try lokma and şambali, and take a Turkish coffee break in one of the old hans of Kemeraltı. If service isn't on the bill, leaving 5-10 per cent is common.
İzmir trip budget
İzmir is a bit cheaper than İstanbul, and the difference shows most in accommodation. At 2026 prices, a day per person comes out at roughly one of three levels: 2,000-3,500 TL (guesthouse or hostel, street food), 5,000-8,000 TL (mid-range hotel, local restaurants) and 12,000 TL and up (a hotel facing the Kordon, fish restaurant). Accommodation is included in these figures.
The metro, İZBAN, buses and ferries all take the İzmirim Kart or a contactless card, with one ride costing around 20-35 TL in 2026. A breakfast of gevrek, boyoz and egg costs around 100-180 TL. At state museums such as the Agora and the Archaeological Museum, the Müzekart pass covers entry.
Walking the Kordon, getting lost in Kemeraltı and the exhibitions at Arkas Art Center are free. A return ferry ride to Karşıyaka is also the cheapest way to see the bay.
Prices are approximate as of October 2026.
Hidden gems and overlooked spots in İzmir
- Kemeraltı Bazaar — İzmir's historic bazaar of hans, courtyards, synagogues and trade lanes, best explored by getting a little lost. (visit ≈ 120 min)
- Havra Street — Narrow, lively lane inside Kemeraltı lined with fish and grocery stalls and ringed by old synagogues. (visit ≈ 30 min)
- Arkas Art Center — A free art gallery in a former consulate on the Kordon, with changing exhibitions. (visit ≈ 45 min)
- Alsancak Station — Anatolia's first railway station, best paired with the small railway museum across the street. (visit ≈ 20 min)
- Ahmet Piriştina City Archive and Museum — Museum in a former fire station telling İzmir's urban history through photos and documents. (visit ≈ 45 min)
- Kıbrıs Şehitleri Street — Alsancak's pedestrian street of cafés, shops and bars, good for a late-afternoon stroll. (visit ≈ 45 min)
- Sevgi Yolu — Short, pleasant palm-lined walkway in Alsancak known for its second-hand book stalls. (visit ≈ 20 min)
- Pasaport Pier — An old ferry pier by the historic customs building, where you can hop over to Karşıyaka for a short ride across the bay. (visit ≈ 20 min)
- Historic Gasworks Culture Centre — Late-19th-century gasworks in Alsancak whose brick halls now host exhibitions and events. (visit ≈ 40 min)
- Balçova Cable Car — A cable car from Balçova up to Dokuz Eylül hill, with picnic areas and a view over the gulf at the top. (visit ≈ 60 min)
- National Library and Elhamra — Ornate building of a library founded in 1912 at the edge of Kemeraltı, beside the old Elhamra cinema. (visit ≈ 20 min)
- Dario Moreno Street — Narrow, colourful stepped lane at the foot of the Elevator, named after the singer who grew up in Karataş. (visit ≈ 15 min)
- Sasalı Natural Life Park — A large wildlife park at Sasalı with habitat-style enclosures, a half-day outing that suits families. (visit ≈ 150 min)
- KEY Museum — Private museum in Torbalı with classic cars and motorcycles in a former factory hangar. (visit ≈ 90 min)
- Ephesus — One of the best-preserved Roman cities of the Mediterranean, with the Library of Celsus and terrace houses. (visit ≈ 180 min)
- Şirince — Hillside village of stone houses and narrow lanes amid olive groves and vineyards near Ephesus. (visit ≈ 150 min)
- Kordon — On the waterfront from Alsancak to Konak, people sit on the grass to watch the sunset while cyclists ride along the shore. (visit ≈ 60 min)
- Old Smyrna — The city's earliest settlement is the Tepekule mound in Bayraklı, where foundations of a 7th-century BC temple of Athena can still be seen. (visit ≈ 45 min)
- Izmir Bird Paradise — This protected area in the Gediz Delta is best known for flamingos, and has observation towers and tracks you can ride by bike. (visit ≈ 120 min)
Getting from the airport to İzmir
- Adnan Menderes (ADB): İZBAN suburban train ≈ 30 min
Getting around
Metro, the İZBAN train and bay ferries link the city; all take the İzmirim Kart or a contactless card. The seafront and the bazaar are best on foot.
Classic places to eat
- Deniz Restaurant: Known for decades on the seafront for fish and meze.
- Altınkapı: An old İzmir döner house, famous for döner on pide.
- Alsancak Dostlar Fırını: Stop by in the morning for warm boyoz and a boiled egg.
- Kızlarağası Hanı: Turkish coffee brewed on embers in an Ottoman inn courtyard.
- Ayşa Boşnak Börekçisi: Bosnian-style börek and home cooking.
Romantic views
- Kordon Seafront (Sunset): Sit on the grass and watch the sun set over the bay.
- Historic Elevator (Evening): Ride up and see the whole bay from the terrace.
- Kadifekale (Sunset): The widest city view from the old castle walls.
- Konak Pier (Evening): A historic pier building linked to Eiffel’s design, right on the water.
Football stadiums in İzmir
- Gürsel Aksel Stadium: Home of Göztepe S.K.
- Buca Arena: Home of Bucaspor
- Alsancak Mustafa Denizli Stadium: Home of Altay S.K., Altınordu F.K.
Good to know before visiting İzmir
- Fine: Insulting the memory of Atatürk, the Turkish flag or state symbols is a criminal offence.
- Fine: Exporting antiquities is banned; keep receipts and, for old carpets or objects, ask for a museum export certificate.
- Fine: Photographing military zones and facilities is prohibited; obey "military zone" signs.
- Fine: Smoking is banned indoors and on public transport; lighting fires in forests in summer is fined.
- Warning: Carry your ID or passport; police may ask for it at checks.
- Warning: Shops and kiosks may not sell alcohol between 22:00 and 06:00.
- Emergency: 112
- Plugs: C/F, 230V
- Tap water: Tap water is treated, but most people drink bottled or jug water.
- Tipping: A 5–10% tip is common in restaurants; round up taxi fares.
Sources: UK FCDO — Foreign travel advice: Türkiye, T.C. Dışişleri Bakanlığı — Resmî e-Vize, Wikivoyage — Turkey · For information only; rules change, check official sources before you go. Last checked: 2026-10
Build your route on the İzmir map
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