A short history of Tbilisi
Narikala · Photo: Diego Delso, CC BY-SA 4.0In the old town a faint smell of sulphur rises above the brick domes of Abanotubani. The city's name comes from these hot springs too, since "tbili" means warm in Georgian. Legend has it that a pheasant shot by King Vakhtang Gorgasali on a hunt fell into a hot spring and was found cooked, and the king ordered a city built on the spot.
For centuries this crossroads changed hands between Persians, Arabs, Mongols and Ottomans. In 1795 an Iranian army burned much of the city, so most of the wooden-balconied houses you see today come from the following century. In 1801 eastern Georgia became part of the Russian Empire, and the opera and theatre buildings on Rustaveli Avenue carry the mark of that period.
Georgia was under Soviet rule from 1921 to 1991. For a look at the newer city, head to the glass Bridge of Peace over the Mtkvari, opened in 2010. Just above it, the walls of Narikala Fortress still keep watch over the old town.
Tbilisi neighbourhoods
Avlabari, on the left bank of the Mtkvari, is historically known as the Armenian quarter. The gold-domed Sameba Cathedral sits on its slope, and from Metekhi Church on the edge of the cliff you look across to the old town. Walking over the bridge to the other bank in the late afternoon makes a good route.
Mtatsminda hill is the place to come up for air above the city. Take the funicular or the footpath, pass the pantheon where Georgian writers and artists are buried, and at the top you get a funfair and a wide view.
Saburtalo isn't touristy at all, and with its Soviet blocks, shopping centres and students it shows everyday life in Tbilisi. Around nearby Lisi Lake you'll see families jogging and picnicking at weekends. Dezerter Bazaar by the train station is a crowded market hall full of fresh herbs, cheeses, churchkhela and spices, a bit like Izmir's Kemeraltı but messier.
Where to stay
- Old Town (Kala): Sulphur baths and historic lanes.
- Sololaki: Art Nouveau houses and wine bars.
- Vera: Quiet, leafy and full of cafés.
- Vake: Upscale residential area, park and restaurants.
- Marjanishvili / Fabrika: Hostels, street art and nightlife.
When to visit Tbilisi
May-June and September-October bring days of around 18-27 °C, the easiest time to walk the hilly streets. The New Wine Festival takes place in May, and during the grape harvest (rtveli) from late September into October a day trip to Kakheti is a real pleasure. At Tbilisoba, the city festival in October, stalls and stages go up in the streets.
July and August reach 30-35 °C, and the stone lanes heat up properly in the afternoon. Save the baths and museums for those hours.
Winter sits at 0-8 °C, with the odd snowfall that rarely lasts. Hotel prices drop. The city livens up again for Orthodox Christmas on 7 January and the Old New Year on 14 January.
Food culture in Tbilisi
Eat khinkali with your hands. Hold the knot of dough on top, take a small bite and drink the broth first, then leave the knot on the side of your plate. Georgians order khinkali by number, and many places want at least five.
Khachapuri comes in many styles. The Adjarian one arrives shaped like a boat with an egg yolk and butter in the middle, which you stir together and mop up with the crust. Aubergine rolls with walnut paste (badrijani nigvzit), spinach or beetroot pkhali and grilled mtsvadi go well alongside. For something sweet, pick up churchkhela at the market, walnuts dipped in thickened grape juice.
Georgian wine is known for the qvevri method, fermented in clay jars buried in the ground, and many restaurants also pour house wine by the jug. Dinner usually starts after 20:00. A service charge of around 10-15% is often added to the bill, so there's no need to tip on top.
Tbilisi trip budget
Tbilisi still looks affordable to visitors from Europe, although rents and hotel prices have risen noticeably in recent years. With a hostel bed, khinkali and bakery khachapuri, a day in 2026 wraps up at 100-150 GEL. A boutique hotel and restaurant meals bring that to 250-400 GEL, and a good hotel with wine-filled evenings reaches 600 GEL and up.
A single ride on the metro or a bus is around 1 GEL, and you tap in with a contactless bank card. Getting across the centre by Bolt rarely costs more than 5-10 GEL. Private rooms at the Abanotubani baths cost roughly 60-200 GEL an hour, depending on the bathhouse and the size of the room.
The old town lanes, the walls of Narikala, the Dry Bridge flea market and the churches are all free. Churches expect clothing that covers shoulders and knees, and a headscarf for women, and most have wraps at the door.
Prices are approximate as of October 2026.
Hidden gems and overlooked spots in Tbilisi
- Abanotubani Sulphur Baths — The historic district where the city began, with brick-domed sulphur baths and private rooms for hire. (visit ≈ 90 min)
- Dry Bridge Market — Open-air flea market full of Soviet-era badges, cameras and antiques. (visit ≈ 60 min)
- Fabrika Tbilisi — Former Soviet sewing factory turned graffiti-filled courtyard of cafés and design shops. (visit ≈ 45 min)
- Gabriadze Clock Tower — Whimsical leaning tower by the puppet theatre where a little angel appears on the hour. (visit ≈ 15 min)
- Mtatsminda Park — A hilltop park with a Ferris wheel, reached by funicular, giving the widest view over the city. (visit ≈ 90 min)
- Wine Factory N1 — 1800s winery building whose courtyard is now full of bars and tasting rooms. (visit ≈ 60 min)
- Rike Park — On the Kura's left bank, this park opened in 2010 and holds the cable car station for Narikala and the tube-shaped concert hall. (visit ≈ 30 min)
- Gudiashvili Square — This Old Tbilisi square takes its name from painter Lado Gudiashvili and is ringed by restored 19th-century houses with wooden balconies. (visit ≈ 20 min)
- Davit Aghmashenebeli Avenue — Renovated 19th-century facades line this left-bank avenue, part of which is pedestrianised and full of cafes and shops. (visit ≈ 40 min)
- Mtatsminda Pantheon — In the yard of Mamadaviti Church on the Mtatsminda slope, Georgian writers and artists lie in a burial ground from 1929. (visit ≈ 45 min)
- Svetitskhoveli Cathedral — An 11th-century cathedral in the old capital of Mtskheta, one of the Georgian Church's holiest sites and UNESCO-listed. (visit ≈ 60 min)
- Jvari Monastery — A small late-6th-century church on a hilltop above Mtskheta, looking down on the meeting of the Mtkvari and Aragvi rivers. (visit ≈ 45 min)
Getting from the airport to Tbilisi
- Tbilisi International (TBS): Bus 337 ≈ 40 min; Bolt taxi ≈ 25 min
Getting around
The centre is walkable but hilly; metro and buses take contactless bank cards. Bolt taxis are cheap and common.
Classic places to eat
- Barbarestan: Georgian recipes from a 19th-century cookbook.
- Shavi Lomi: Georgian cooking with a modern twist.
- Café Littera: Contemporary Georgian food in the Writers’ House garden.
- Pasanauri: Juicy hand-made khinkali.
- Café Gabriadze: Fairy-tale café next to the puppet theatre.
- Funicular Restaurant: Ponchiki doughnuts with a view on Mtatsminda.
- Keto and Kote: Georgian food in a garden house in Vera.
Romantic views
- Narikala Fortress (Sunset): You look down on the old town roofs and the Mtkvari River.
- Bridge of Peace (Evening): The glass bridge glows with lights at night.
- Mother of Georgia (Sunset): A quiet ridge walk on Sololaki hill overlooking the city.
- Rike Park (Evening): A riverside park with views up to the fortress.
- National Botanical Garden (Early morning): A shady valley with a waterfall below the fortress walls.
Football stadiums in Tbilisi
- Dinamo Arena: Home of FC Dinamo Tbilisi
- Mikheil Meskhi Stadium: Home of FC Iberia 1999, FC Lokomotivi Tbilisi
Good to know before visiting Tbilisi
- Fine: Entering Abkhazia or South Ossetia via Russia is a criminal offence under Georgian law.
- Fine: Photographing military sites and border posts is prohibited.
- Warning: Using cannabis isn't a criminal offence, but buying, carrying or selling it is illegal.
- Warning: In churches women cover their hair and wear skirts; men avoid shorts.
- Warning: Traffic is fast and aggressive; take care even on crossings.
- In Tbilisi pay metro and buses with a contactless card or Metromoney card.
- Emergency: 112
- Plugs: C/F, 220V
- Tap water: Tbilisi tap water is generally fine, though many prefer bottled.
- Tipping: A 10–18% service charge is often added; otherwise leave about 10%.
Sources: UK FCDO — Foreign travel advice: Georgia, Wikivoyage — Georgia, T.C. Dışişleri Bakanlığı — Türk vatandaşlarının tabi olduğu vize uygulamaları · For information only; rules change, check official sources before you go. Last checked: 2026-10
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